The home of Port-perhaps the most internationally acclaimed beverage-the Douro region of Portugal is one of the world’s oldest delimited wine regions, established in 1756. When ten-year anniversary tastings are done, this will have to be on the shortlist of greats to reconsider to determine how the best in the vintage are meeting expectations. Great young Ports go through many phases, and both are great young Ports. I'd pick this today, but in time, both undoubtedly will have more tales to tell. At some point, reevaluation is required.Īt the moment, it seems to be a step up on the Vinha Velha, although that is far more closed. As noted in the accompanying article, I don't see much point to impossibly long drinking windows. It will need some time, probably a lot more than indicated, and will likely last longer than indicated as well. It tastes great now (today, it is far more vivid than its Vinha Velha sibling), but the power makes this hard to drink today. It is potentially a great Taylor's, effortlessly combining brilliant fruit and structure. It's not particularly thick, austere or astringent, but this is built for the long haul. A step up (or two) on the 2016, this shows fine depth, more focus, vivid fruit and serious power. It comes in with 100 grams of residual sugar. The 2017 Vintage Port, not quite bottled when seen but the final blend, is a field blend aged for approximately 20 months in wood. A beautifully delineated wine, with poise and definition and the tantalizing promise of pleasures still to come. The palate is held in place by lithe, muscular tannins, firm and grippy on the finish, and ends with a powerful surge of crisp, pure berry fruit. The nose is reserved but there is impressive depth and background. Signature fragrance of violets, which hangs like a scented veil over the wine with discreet terroir notes of citrus and wild herbs. The nose is threaded with fine, linear fruit, heady and complex but restrained by a graphite minerality. Opaque at the center with a narrow purple rim. Temperatures at harvest were mild, with cool nights, leading to balanced fermentations and excellent extraction. The last time picking was recorded as having started this early was in 1945 when the first fruit was picked on September 3rd. Picking started at Quinta de Vargellas on September 1st. As expected, the crop ripened very early, showing high sugar levels which led to longer fermentations and very effective color extraction. Conditions remained dry until the end of September although temperatures for much of the ripening season were moderate. June was extremely hot and the early cycle continued with véraison around June 18th, one month earlier than the previous year. The dry conditions continued into Spring and the warm weather in April and May encouraged rapid growth of the vines. Following a wet 2016, the year started with cold and dry winter conditions.
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